New England

Introducing Boston

Excerpt from Lonely Planet Boston City Guide, 4th edition. Buy the book here. 

Exiting Kendall Square, the red-line train emerges from the tunnel into the daylight. It trundles over the Longfellow Bridge, offering up 360 degrees of river, sky and city. 

The sun glints off the River Charles, framing the sailboats that float silently in the basin. The handsome Back Bay brownstones line up along the shore in an orderly fashion, while the backdrop is a haphazard assembly of skyscraper spires. In the east, the gold dome of the State House peaks out from its perch on Beacon Hill. And in the west shines the Citgo sign. The passengers on the T take a momentary break from their commute to marvel at their city. 

If Boston is lovely to look at from afar, she is even more intriguing up close. These narrow streets recall a history of revolution and transformation, and still today, Boston is among the country's forward-thinking and barrier-breaking cities. This is most evident politically, where Boston is at the forefront of controversial issues like same-sex marriage and universal healthcare. It's also visible in the changing landscape of the city, as Boston and environs are now home to some of the country's most cutting-edge architecture and innovative urban planning projects. Culturally, Boston is shedding its staid and stodgy reputation, as contemporary art and film flourish. Its universities and colleges continue to attract scholars, scientists, philosophers and writers who shape the city's evolving culture. 

Now the train has pulled into Park St station. Elbows out. Eyes alert. Let's see what Boston is all about. 

Boston Life 

The good times could not last forever. For more than a decade, real estate values increased, unemployment decreased and Boston was a boomtown. Neighborhoods thrived as developers poured money into revitalization efforts. And the investments paid off, because Bostonians were coming out in droves to experience everything their city had to offer.  

But Boston is not immune to the recession that is sweeping the nation. In the financial sector, hundreds of white-collar workers have lost their jobs. They city is strapped for cash, cutting back services and laying off workers.  Fortunately, medicine and academia are largely `recession-proof', which means that Boston might weather this economic storm better than others. 

Meanwhile, the city looks fantastic, thanks to effort and investment of past years. With the completion of the Big Dig, neighborhoods like the North End, West End and waterfront have been rediscovered and reconnected to the rest of the city by a network of green parks and inviting plazas. Gentrification has transformed the South End, which is now Boston's trendiest destination for creative cuisine and avant-garde art. The Leather District has become an up-and-coming area with cool, contemporary clubs and loft condominiums. And the Seaport District - once an industrial warehouse zone abandoned to the artists - is the city's next hot spot. 

Inevitably, some areas have been left in the lurch by the sudden onset of recession. Downtown Crossing suffered from the closing of its centerpiece department store, Filene's. Developers planned to preserve the historic façade of the old building and build a skyscraper behind it, creating new hotel, retail and office space. But construction had come to a standstill at the time of research, leaving the Filene's façade teetering on the edge of an abyss. West of center, Allston was targeted for a complete overhaul at the expense of its wealthy neighbor across the river. But Harvard has announced that the project will be delayed, and Allston is left with great swimming pool potential. 

Nonetheless, Boston continues to exude an upbeat atmosphere. The young population exhibits an energy and exuberance that is hard to suppress.  

And no matter how far the economy falls, Bostonians still have their sports teams. The recent championships by the Red Sox, Patriots and Celtics have earned Boston the title `best sports city in America.' Now that's something to cheer about.